Wednesday, 10 March 2010

Martinique

In case you are wondering why the blog entries are so sporadic and e-mailing the same.

Well getting a connection is often very difficult. Sometimes we can get on line in the anchorage but only on deck, and we have to resort to trying to see the screen in whatever way we can! And it's hot in there!










Keith trying to get on-line!

Martinique


Weighed anchor from Rodney Bay, St Lucia and headed for Martinique arounds 25 miles away.

Had a brilliant sail, we sailed close hauled all the way under full main and genoa for the first time since we can remember. We were trailing a fishing lure that had been suggested to us by some freinds from a catamaran called Tallula, it was a really gay pink and feathery thing (the lure not the catamaran). Our fishing skills seem to have deserted us recently.....then, a couple of hours out we caught a nice sized Spanish Mackerel! Inspired by this, Keith decides to change to the really big pink squid with the enormous fish hooks........when we brought this in on nearing our destination the line had been bitten right though; glad we didn't actually catch that monster!












The Spanish Mackerel








The 'girly gay pink' lure




You might wonder what we generally eat. Well if we can catch fish I will bake or fry it and beiing fresh it iis wonderfull.....but we would starve to death if we relied on that. The only things that are cheap here are bananas and rum! So there is our diet of course! We eat loads of bananas and plantains (a type of banana that needs cooking), straight, baked, baked soaked in rum, fried, fried soaked in rum, all very tasty and nutritious.

Martinique is a French overseas deparment, and as such is a part of France. This status results in it having a higher standard of living than neighbouring Caribbean Islands. We were able to enjoy French baguetts, pate, cheeses and also, in the supermarkets, cheap wine and beer compared to the other islands. That was where it ended though. Everything esle is much more expensive than everywhere else, and everyone speaks French and very little English.
Diamond Rock

The island has had the usual change of hands between French and English in the battle to rule the waves etc. One of the southern off-lying rocks (Diamond Rock) was commissioned as a ship in 1804 by the English and called HMS Diamond Rock. 20 sailors and 4 cannon were situated there to defend the sea approaches to the island. The legend goes that the French finally caused several boats filled with casks of rum to be wrecked on the islet. The English gave up without a fight being dead drunk when the enemy attacked! My book source (written by a Frenchman) says that this tale may not be found in the English history books.......funny that!

Le Marin (Martinique)


First port of call was in the south of the island at Le Marin, a town which has only developed because of the huge marina and protected anchorage. Again, our reason for this stop is to get the alternator mended and try to sort ou the SSB rado problem. the place felt a bit like a huge car park for boat.




Rapau in Le Marin 'car park'













Le Marin town







Unfortunately it took over 2 weeks to get the wiring from the batteries re-done and get the spare alternator fixed so we were thoroughly glad to leave the 'car park' when we finally did.



Fort De France (Martinique)












A quick overnight stop at the capital Fort de France which was a vibrant busy town, then on further up the coast to St Pierre.


St Pierre (Martinique)


This lovely little town was once known as the Paris of the Caribbean and was the capital of Martinique. It was the social centre of Martinique and the richness of the plantations meant ships would take on rum, sugar, coffee and cocoa making the plantation owners multi millionaires. Apparently plenty of cheap bars, brothels and dancing girls were available to keep
the sailors happy.








Rapau in St Pierre









St Pierre

Then on May 8th 1902 the Mount Pelee volcano overlooking the town, erupted. Despite earlier warnings most people didn't leave, believing it impossible there could be destruction of this rich imprtant capital. A giant fireball of superheated gas flowed over the city leaving only 2 survivors out of nearly 30,000 inhabitants. One was a cobbler in his cellar and the other man imprisoned in a stone cell for murder. Twenty ships in the bay were also destroyed.




Mount Pelee












The prison ruins






The prison cell (no that's not the prisoner, don't be cruel. Keith was not in Martinique in 1902).






It was a nice little town and we visited the ruins of the prison and the theatre amongst others, and the vibrant Saturday morning market.


We then hiked 40 mins up the hill to the Depaz rum factory which has been rebuilt as it lies at the foot of Mount Pelee. The grounds were lovely and the tour even better as it was free! So we had to celebrate by buying some very unusual gimballed glasses and a four and half litre box of Depaz rum for almost a song so we could make tradional Ti Punch!









The Depaz mansion (re-built), in the shadow of the volcano

No comments:

Post a Comment